Day #1: River and Fishermen
As I made my way out of my bed, the sounds of bustling nature and the sticky hot air hit me like a brick. The place I am at is a small town hidden in a cove of mountains 600 meters tall covered head to toe in dense foliage and is part of the much bigger port town: São Sebastião. The town’s name is Maresias, named after the fine mist strong waves produce when they crash. This place captures the bi-polarness of mother-nature in both the sea and the air. One day there is heat and humidity with the calmest ocean perfect for any swimming, but as night strikes a thunderstorm ravages the hill houses and the coconut-heavy palm trees and the next day you have cool temperatures with an ocean only the most adrenaline-seeking surfers would approach. Needless to say, quite an incredible place. It’s beauty and impressive surf attracts several outsiders from all over the place, but a majority of the tourists are residents from the largest city in the nation, São Paulo. These people come mostly during the weekends, and during their stay they spend a lot of money, albeit hotels or merchandise, which adds to the economy of the town. People begin to fall in love with the town, noting its romantic atmosphere. The wealthier tourists buy houses that are closest to the beach and now there is even more money in a relatively small town. Suddenly, as more low-income people notice this economic growth, they all flock to the same area. This mixture of limited space, poor infrastructure, and an overflow of people, in any scenario, never ends good.
However, noticing this growth, the city hall makes a decision to add a sewage treatment plant so that the river that runs through the town doesn’t get polluted (before this people had underground storages for their sewage and most just emptied it into the river, but the population was small so there wasn’t a that bad of an effect on the environment). It sounds like the perfect plan, until they build it and then it never gets put into use and then the population triples in 10 years. Now, there is a major problem. This was our main focus of the day: water pollution and how it affects the environment and the people. The inspiration around this project came from one event and one man: Thiago Oliveira. He is the founder of a very small non-profit organization called Desengarrafando Mentes, Unbottling Minds in English, that deals with common pollutants such as plastic and educates children about these pollutants and with the town’s surfing culture as well. One very spectacular thing that he does is make surfboards from plastic bottles and borrow them for children to learn how to surf. He’s lived here for 7 years and has a wife and daughter of 4 years.
He told us about what his organization was about and what it did and after the encounter my parents and I connected the idea back to student-proposed A-Terms, and it's all history from there. During planning an idea sprung up about a mini documentary to ease explanation and give better visualization of what was happening during the A-Term presentation, if it happens (kudos to Costa Rica J-Term for the film inspiration). So to film all the stuff two people from Maresias TV (@maresiastv) named Rafael César (@rafaelcesarjornalista) and Lucas (@lucasrec_) as well as Priscila Pirillo (@pripirillo) and Suellen to also record for Unbottling Minds Instagram page (@desengarrafandomentes).
The first thing that we did collectively at the start of this beautiful first day was have a meeting about how the documentary will go and go more into detail about what we would do that day. We went over the narrative of the documentary and what kind of shots would be included and all of that. Having something similar to the Costa Rica film in mind, I was looking for a lot of shots of the environment since there was plenty to showcase, but Rafael and Thiago were thinking of filming the work we were gonna do, so at the end of that part of the discussion I decided on doing what they thought was better because nature shots would be included by default anyway. So for the rest of the day we would eat lunch and then explore the path of the river from the bottom of the mountain all the way to the mouth at the beach. So at around 1:30 in the afternoon after we had our lunch we set off about 2 kilometers until the end of the road Novo Iguaço at the head of the Poço Do Caetano trail (Poço means well in english, but at the end of the trail there isn’t a well, but a sort of mini-waterfall where the water gets around 3 meters deep, as if it were a well but it isn’t). Here, at the end of the trail, is a picturesque view of the forest from below, and the water is crystal clear. Thiago said that he has a friend who hiked up the river for four hours and the water quality just keeps getting better and better.
This is the head of the trail
A little creek in the trail
River Maresias at the bottom of the mountain, covered in dense foliage
Poço Do Caetano
Thiago Oliveira stands in the middle of the family, explaining to us wear the piping starts
After we visited the trail and the river at the bottom of the mountain, we headed over to the sewage treatment plant, which was never put into use. Here is a scene which I thought was the mother of all ironies: the sewage treatment plant, standing tall and abandoned, and right across the road is a ditch filled with foul-smelling, parasite-filled, grey liquid which is, put in small words, raw sewage. The sewage from this ditch flowed down a series of pipes and other ditches that split up in different paths that all joined the river at some point. One very interesting thing about the sewage plant is that after it just stood there and was never used, people painted mosaics on it as a way of protest, saying, “Hey, so are you guys just going to build this and just leave it here?” One fault of the mosaics is that most people took it not as a form of protest, but as a form of acceptance, as if they were saying that the city hall would never do anything to help because that’s just who they are.
One of several mountains overlooking the sprawling town
The pipe where the sewage in the ditch leaves
The infamous ditch sits at an intersection and contains all of the sewage from the houses behind it
Across the street from the ditch are the unused sewage treatment plants, decorated with local artwork
Following the experience of witnessing raw sewage, we went to two other locations, one was a place where the sewage joins the river and a place where a hotel releases all of its water from. The first location wasn’t so bad. It’s what anyone would expect from a polluted river, a less polluted part joins up with the very polluted part and now there is more polluted water, simple as that. However, since the sewage joins at a bend in the river, there forms a depression where water circulates with the sewage, and it’s just the nastiest black color, something you shouldn’t find in nature. After that we went to a very important place, where a hotel connects their waste to the river via pipe. At this point the river is a solid brown, absolutely no visibility whatsoever. The stench was, at the time, not so bad, but Thiago said that at times it is unbearable and can be smelled from far away. Sometimes, the hotel does large amounts of laundry, and to do laundry you need detergent. The drainage from the laundry machines has a lot of excess elements that are very hazardous to the environment. The bridge stands about 2 meters above the water, and the river is about 2.5 meters wide and god knows how deep. Sometimes, when the laundry excess is released, bubbles are formed and they overflow the bridge.
Plastic in the bend of the river
That was the worst part of the river, but from there on it twists and turns under dense foliage that somewhat filters some stuff out, but eventually it empties out into the beach and into the ocean. Here the river isn’t as bad as it was in the other area, but it still has a dark green color with somewhat okay visibility, but in some deep parts the bottom is covered in a green slime, which produces an unpleasant smell. There is one part of the river that is formed when the ocean waves push it back, and this part has no water movement at all, and that makes it very low visibility with a very strong stench. When the polluted river enters the ocean, the current pulls it around the coast of the eastern mountain and then gets sent out to the open ocean. However, along the coastline of the mountain there is another much smaller beach named Prainha (Little Beach in English) that for a long time has been the place where fishermen keep their boats and canoes, because a little down the mountain coast is where the best fishing spot is. Before the population of Maresias grew exponentially and the river was nowhere near as polluted, the fishermen were bringing in 400 kilograms of fish every time they went out and collected their nets. When we went there they brought in their nets and pulled in only about 30 kilograms of fish. They say that ever since the river became polluted, this has been the reality. Not only that, but the water has had a greener hue and the rocks have become slippery, something that had never happened before.
The river had a very unpleasant smell
River Maresias, coming out from the forest and into the beach
Part of a sofa cushion, sitting in the sand next to the river
Prainha sits behind a large mountain and is relatively close to the river
The fishermen standing next to their two boats
The fishermen bringing in their catch
The amount of fish they got was significantly less than what it used to be before
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